Subject: DATA I/O SetSite module

From: Joe <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 12:47:00 2003

Anybody know where I can find a PDF copy of the manual for this?

    Joe

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From: steven <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 14:15:00 2003

Yes, it's true, the pens for the TRS-80 PC-2 plotter
are the same as the TRS-80 CGP-115, and the same as
the Atari 1020 plotter.

I recently bought some from http://myatari.com .

Of course, I haven't gotten my plotter working yet - a
cracked gear, of course.

Steve.
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com

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From: Ethan Dicks <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 15:05:01 2003

> I recently bought some from http://myatari.com .

Right.

> Of course, I haven't gotten my plotter working yet - a

I've written to them - they have dozens of plotters with cracked
gears.  :-(

-ethan

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From: Joe <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 16:26:01 2003

>I've written to them - they have dozens of plotters with cracked

   Have any of you tried to take the gear off the shaft, squeeze it shut and somehow glue or "weld" (ultrasonic welding, perhaps) it closed and then re-install it?
   
    FWIW I had a CGP-115 years ago. It split the gear also. I tried to buy one from Radio Shack but they wanted me to pay their technician for an hour's labor to "verify" that the gear was bad.  RIGHT!  That was THE last time that I ever bought ANYTHING from TRS!  I later ran into someone that was a regional manger for TRS, I told him about the trouble that I'd had tying to get the gear. He ordered a package of six of them for me at no charge. So the gears are (were!) available. I used one of the gears and never used the others but I have no idea what happened to the rest of them.

    Joe

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From: "Philip Pemberton" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 17:16:01 2003

Joe wrote:
>    Have any of you tried to take the gear off the shaft, squeeze it
> shut and somehow glue or "weld" (ultrasonic welding, perhaps) it
> closed and then re-install it?
If someone wants to send me one or two plotters with bad drive gears, I'd be
willing to have a go at repairing them. My technique involves repairing the
damage with Araldite (epoxy adhesive - sets rock hard) and then putting a
small (#10) staple in across the damaged section. The staple is heated with
either a soldering iron or a small "night light" candle (as used for
aromatherapy burners) and is then pushed in across the damaged section of
the gear. Two are fitted across each cracked section, one on each side. Like
I said, if someone wants to send me a dead plotter, I'll have a go at fixing
it. I'd be tempted to take a few 10ths of a mm off the inside of the hole
for the shaft that the gear fits onto. If they're cracking, the shaft is
probably too big for the hole. Enlarging the hole very slightly should
reduce the pressure a bit and hopefully make the gear last a few more years
that it would have done if it were not modified.

>     FWIW I had a CGP-115 years ago. It split the gear also. I tried
> to buy one from Radio Shack but they wanted me to pay their
> technician for an hour's labor to "verify" that the gear was bad.
I know that frustration only too well...

> I later ran into someone that was a regional manger for TRS, I told
> him about the trouble that I'd had tying to get the gear. He ordered
> a package of six of them for me at no charge. So the gears are
> (were!) available. I used one of the gears and never used the others
> but I have no idea what happened to the rest of them.
I'll give you $5 or so for the remaining five if you can find them. To be
distributed among anyone on the classiccmp list for my cost only.
Alternatively, can someone get the RS part number and annoy the salesdroids
at their local store with a "Can you get this in for me" request? Living in
the UK makes it quite difficult to get stuff that Radioshack are/were
selling.

Later.
--
Phil.
[email-masked]
http://www.philpem.dsl.pipex.com/

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From: Peter Turnbull <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu May 1 17:38:01 2003

On May 1, 23:13, Philip Pemberton wrote:

> small (#10) staple in across the damaged section.

Er, the gear we've been discussing is very small -- about 3mm overall
diameter, roughly the size of the winder knob on a small ladies
wristwatch!  MUCH smaller than a small staple, in fact the bore's
hardly bigger than the staple diameter :-)

Anyway, Araldite doesn't stick to waxy plastic like these gears :-(

> I'd be tempted to take a few 10ths of a mm off the inside of the hole
> probably too big for the hole.

Enlarging the hole by 0.1mm would make it spin on the shaft :-)

-- 
Pete						Peter Turnbull
						Network Manager
						University of York

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From: Ethan Dicks <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri May 2 00:54:00 2003

--- Philip Pemberton <[email-masked]> wrote:
> If someone wants to send me one or two plotters with bad drive gears,
> I'd be willing to have a go at repairing them. My technique involves
> repairing the damage with Araldite (epoxy adhesive - sets rock hard)
> and then putting a small (#10) staple in across the damaged section.

I have a number of NOS plotter engines with nearly all (pre) cracked
gears.  I will be happy to loan you one, but I think you will find that
your technique is not suitable for such a small gear.  The diameter of
the staple wire is about the same as the thickness of the plastic
between the bottom of the groove and the bore.  There are two gears
per engine - X and Y.  Same size.  Same problem.  One on the left,
one on the right.

I have used similar techniques (with success) fixing Atari joystick
actuators (I used to get the joysticks for free from overenthusiastic
friends with 2600s)

You would have to get the plastic to mate up rather closely where
the crack is - the "problem" is not that the shaft slips in the broken
gear; it's that the gap causes the gear not to mesh with the driven
gear and the gear train binds, preventing X or Y motion.

> reduce the pressure a bit and hopefully make the gear last a few more
> years that it would have done if it were not modified.

The shaft diameter is 1/20" (1.27mm).  If you enlarge the bore by
7%-14% (one or two tenths of a mm) off the inside of the gear, it will
freewheel and fly off the shaft then get lost in the carpet.

I have some closeup pictures I can e-mail to someone (no ftp access from
the machine they are on)  :-(   The relative sizes of the gears are
visible, as are the cracks.

-ethan